A while back, someone asked me tips and tricks I would recommend to a new cross stitcher. I can’t remember everything I suggested, but these are some of the tips I remember.
1.
Don’t cut your floss too long. A 16- to 18-inch length is perfect. It won’t get too tangled, but you won’t be rethreading needles too often either.
2.
Separate the length of floss into individual threads. The popular cotton flosses from DMC, Weeks Dye Works, Sampler Threads and Crescent Colors are 6-ply threads. If I am stitching on fabrics that are 14-count or 28-count (over two), or a tighter weave, I separate into 6 strands and then reassemble into 3 2-strand sets. If I am stitching on fabrics with a looser weave, I reassemble into 2 3-strand sets.
3.
Straighten the floss by dampening it. As part of the separating step, I also dampen the floss and pull it straight to get rid of any kinks or twists. As I separate the strands, I lay them out flat and by the time I begin to reassemble them they are dry.
I used to dampen the floss by putting on a washcloth and lightly spraying with water from a clean travel-size spray bottle. But several years ago I discovered a cool little plastic rectangular box with a sponge in it. You get the sponge wet, simply pull the 6-strand length of floss across the top – and voila, it’s damp but not too wet. The plastic box has a lid, so the sponge stays damp.
During the 10 or so years I’ve had this little gizmo, I’ve had to replace the sponge a few times. I just cut a piece to fit from a new household sponge and I’m good to go. I’ve tried to find another one, but even after searching dozens of on-line stitching shops, I’ve had no success. I hope mine never breaks because it is so handy.
4.
Make your stitches consistent. In other words, make sure the top “cross” stitches all go in the same direction. I typically begin a stitch from upper left down to lower right, and complete it from upper right to lower left.
5.
Complete one stitch at a time if you are using an overdyed, variegated floss. This makes the subtle color changes more visible in your stitching. However, if you’re using solid-color floss, you can do the first part of the stitch for an entire row and then go back and do the top cross stitch. If you have a large area to fill in, this makes a lovelier finish because the floss lies more evenly and flat.
6.
Use a hoop. My preference is a spring hoop, but a tension screw-hoop will work fine. You can certainly stitch without a hoop, but I think the stitching turns out neater if you use one. My preferred hoop is a 5-inch spring hoop. It allows for a large enough area for stitching, is easy to put on/take off, and is small for travelling (when I get most of my stitching done).
You’ll also notice that I put it on upside-down. By using it this way, my hands are mostly holding on to the hoop and not touching the top of the fabric, so the fabric is less likely to get soiled if I have lotion or something on my hands. There is also nothing underneath for my thread to get caught on. Since I am right-handed, the spring handles are positioned in the 11:00 position. If you are left-handed, position them in the 1:00 position.
7.
Thread many needles at one time. This is probably obvious to most people, but I had to learn it for myself. When I first learned to do counted cross stitch (in about 1982), someone gave me a needle. I had a variety of floss skeins that had been passed down to me, so I would thread the one needle I had, stitch with one color until it was time to use a different color, pull out the old thread and rethread the needle with a different color, and repeat throughout the project. The result was lots of pieces of thread that I needed to keep track of until I needed that color again. I was probably mid-way through my second project when it dawned on me that needles were cheap and I could thread lots of them with all of the colors I needed for the project and not waste time threading/rethreading the needle whenever I needed to switch colors or even when I needed more of the same color. DUH!
8.
Choose the right size needle for the project. If I’m stitching with 2 strands of floss, I typically use a #26 cross-stitch needle. If I’m stitching with 3 strands, I use a #24 needle. A few years ago I was introduced to the shorter, petite needles – and I love using them. It’s easy to eke out a couple more stitches from a length of floss, which is often just enough to keep from having to rethread a needle.
9.
Don’t leave a project in the hoop when you aren’t stitching. If you do, you may stretch the fabric, damage existing stitches, or create creases.
10.
Don’t skimp on fabric size. Admittedly I like to use up pieces of fabric for small projects. However, if the fabric is too small, I won’t be able to use my hoop. Or, when stitching close to the edge, some of the fabric won’t be caught in the hoop. Whenever possible, you’ll want your fabric to be 1-1/2 to 2 inches bigger all the way around the design area.
11.
And lastly, don’t be afraid to do your own thing! If you love a design, but the colors just aren’t you, don’t hesitate to substitute colors you love. For example,
La-D-Da’s design named “A – Z & Between” is on my list of projects to stitch. But lavender and pink simply won’t work in my house. So, I’ll be switching the colors to something that is more “me”. If you change colors, it’s important to select a color in the same value as the design – that is if you want a similar look, just in a different colorway.
I’d love to hear your tips and tricks for stitching. I’m sure there are many more that I haven’t yet discovered!
The design is a middle-ages letter "N" by M Designs. It can be worked the way I did it -- with the letter design actually the "negative space" of the fabric, or the letter itself can be stitched as usual. Since this overdyed fabric was so interesting, I decided to have the fabric be the letter.
